Glasnevin Cemetery

If you have an interest in Irish History/Culture then the cemetery in Glasnevin is well worth a look. It’s the largest cemetery in Ireland and the final resting place of many of Ireland’s most notable figures. Its roll read like a “who’s who’s” of Irish political history. It was established by Daniel O’ Connell in 1834 as Catholics had no cemeteries of their own. Since the cemetery opened it has grown from nine acres to 120 acres currently. The headstones as far as the eye can see belie the real truth. Read more

Dublin Castle

Dublin Castle stands on the  original fortifications of the city. It was built on a naturally defensive point: to the North of the site is the River Liffey to its South was the River Poddle (which now runs underground) and which swung around to the North to protect the site on three side by water. The Vikings initially established a base here around 917 (charter of the city is from 888). The name of the town/settlement come in many guises, all to do with the natural features around the site of the castle. Áth Cliath -as it was known  refers to a “hurdled ford”, a crossing point on the Liffey nearby. Then the modern Gaelic name of the city is Baile Áth Cliath. Read more

St. Michan’s Church

This  site has been a place of worship since 1095 when it was first a Danish Chapel. The north of the City was settled before the south, so the older artefacts are to the North.  The current structure dates from mid 17^th c and it’s a building that’s easily missed largely due to its less than striking façade, but let that not deter you The inside of the church is extremely ornate, complete with an organ dated 1724.  Reputedly where Handel sat down and composed the Messiah- but most churches/ivory keys/taverns –  within a particular proximity claim something to do with Handel – but in this case, its a good possibility. The real quirkiness of the church are the vaults. The walls are made of a limestone mix and, over the years, have managed to keet its occupants completely preserved – mummified actually. They all make for particularly strange bedfellows: there’s a very tall Crusader, a 400 year old nun, the remains of the some of the defeated and executed leaders of the 1798 rebellion and, strangely,  a body “sans” hands or feet. If it had been headless only – it could have been claimed as the remains of Robert Emmet and the chapter of his whereabouts could have been closed. Although it may all sound gruesome – it’s far from it – lift the lid on Dublin’s oldest and finest most welcoming hosts. Read more

Royal Hospital Kilmainham

The Royal Hospital, which houses the Museum of Modern Art, was originally built in 1684 as a home for retired soldiers. It was based on plans by Sir Christopher Wren, took a year to complete and cost £23,550

“which was defrayed by a levy of sixpence in the pound out of the pay of every soldier and officer on the military establishment of Ireland”

It stayed as a hospital for two and a half centuries when the residents  began to compete with the stresses and strains of the new Irish Free State. The building was used as storage for the Museum and also was used by the Garda – who still maintain a presence on the grounds. In 1947, after the Republic had been formed, a home for a large statue of Queen Victoria which stood outside Leicester House had to be found. The powers at the time felt that her majesty would be more  at home (and out of the way) in the 48 acres in the Hospital rather than ‘overseeing’ proceedings in the Leinster House vicinity. The grounds are magnificent and in the front of the main building there is a formal 17c garden laid out in a very structured style.

At the end of the main avenue stands a Tudor style Richmond Tower. The original entrance was on the banks of the Liffey but had to be moved to its current position as it began to contribute to traffic congestion after the Heuston Station opened (at least it was spared the wrecking ball like so many Dublin’s’ historic buildings). On the way down to the Tower is one of the hidden gems of the area – Bully’s Acre. This is one of the oldest graveyards in the City and has been the resting place (living and otherwise) of some of the city’s finest. In the graveyard is the centre column of a 10th c Celtic cross thought to have been the Cross from in front of an abbey founded in the 6th c. On the eve of the Battle of Clontarf Brian Boru camped in the Acre before directing his troops in the famous battle. Robert Emmet stayed remarkably close to the area in his final hours. He was interred across the way in Kilmanham Jail. From there he was taken to Thomas Street to be hung drawn and quartered in 1803. When the hanging  was complete and he was beheaded his remains were secretly buried. Prior to his final secret resting place, he was temporally buried in the Acre. Dan Donnelly, the famous Dublin heavyweight boxer, is buried here. Dan was a legendary bare-knuckle and the pride of the capital. After becoming heavyweight champion he bought a succession of pubs, the only one still standing is Fallons. But, amongst a list of supposed vices, Dan was particularly found of his own stock. So much so that he died in one of his bars aged only 32 and was buried in Bully’s Acre in 1820. However, professional grave robbing was rife in the capital at the time and Dan’s corpse became yet another statistic of that trade. In short, after public outcry the body was eventually returned, but without an arm. The limb, some 150 years later, found a resting place in glass case in ‘The Hideout’ bar in Kildare, only a few hundred yards to one of his most famous fights in ‘Donnellys Hollow’. Read more